The Sends Reviewed by Nicolas von Boven for VideoClimb.com

Climbing movies often give us the opportunity to dive into worlds we may not know. Visiting unknown areas is probably one of the reasons a lot of climbers are hooked to this sport. “The Sends” introduces you to some of the finest Swedish climbing areas. It features “a story of two years odyssey through a land covered in granite” with some of the best local climbers including Peter Bosma, Stephan Rasmussen, Ry Morrison Stefan Wulf, Björn Strömberg and many more.

The film focuses on the obsession that makes climbers try and try again until “the send” finally free their mind. Shawn Boye who also shot “Swedish Meatballs” a few years ago seems to like when the “sending statement” happens in magical places.

The movie takes you for a roadtrip trough Sweden: from the west coast in Bohuslän to the east coast in Västervik, Stockholm and Åland. It features some bouldering, night climbing, trad climbing, cave climbing, and deep water soloing… Yes, you can do all this in Sweden! And the climbing quality is definitly not the worst on earth: the rock looks always good and the places are wild and scenic. Beyond the climbing, the movie introduces you to the local climbers trough short interviews.

As for the shooting and the video quality, this movie was very well made. The climbs are shot from many angles, the images and colors are great (even though some footages were shot at night) and the editing is very clean.

If you want to discover a new place or prepare your next climbing trip to Sweden, this movie is made for you!

The movie is available on DVD ($24.95) and HD download ($19.95) on www.tielma.com

-Nicolas von Boven
http://www.videoclimb.com/dvd-review-the-sends/

The Sends Reviewed by Tommy Vänskä for Slouppi.net

A diver - very much resembling Peter Bosma - suffers an accident and is rescued out of the water. During the revival attempts one of the ambulance personnel gives the diagnosis: he is suffering, not from the bends*, but the sends.

So begins the latest video from Tielma productions, i.e. Canadian ex-pat Shawn Boye. Having focused primarily on covering bouldering in Sweden in his previous films Tjugo på Kjuge and Swedish meatballs, Boye now turns to exploring the question of what it takes to send.

The quest begins with bouldering: From a project at Stockholm's Brudberget through the east coast home turf of Stefan Rasmussen to Åland, we are given a hefty dose of ropeless action culminating in the first repeat of Normipäivä at Geta (or was it a dab?), courtesy of Bosma. We are then introduced to a fiery-eyed Stefan Wulf, who manages the first repeat of an old Johan Luhr sport route, and in good style too; Wulf DWS:s the thing, although SWS might be a more appropriate term, as there appears to be around a meter and a half of water beneath the route. Wulf doesn't look super solid here, and confesses that he never linked it on top rope before tossing the rope and going for the solo. Contrary to some persistent beliefs on this side of Åland it would appear that cojones and Sweden do mix after all!

Indeed, for those in doubt the next section should settle the matter, as we are taken aboard Henrik Bolander's boat and are shown what the coast of Bohuslän has to offer in terms of DWS. Right away Bolander climbs a 20+ meter 7c+ at an imposing cliff called Bläckhall, a feat that simple cannot be accomplished without a pair of fair sized balls (metaphorically speaking, of course). The DWS section shows that the contrast between the slightly overhanging granite of Bohuslän and the more commonly seen steep limestone of, say, Mallorca is apparent, but not necessarily to the advantage of either one.

As we move on back to dry land we get a first look at Granitgrottan, an unusually steep cave-like crag which hosts the long time project of Björn Strömberg, who is clearly getting frustrated with not sending the thing. Another man, Scott Mooney, seems to have sending wired, though, as is evidenced by a few second try ascents of rather hard trad routes in Bohuslän. Finally, Strömberg gets his shit together and completes his project, giving birth to Leroy, 8c. But only after he has fallen off at the anchors due to a carabiner gate facing the wrong way! I suggest clipping class for Björn, but good effort anyway.

In my opinion it is usually a good idea to have some kind of structural framework in a climbing film, meaning something that makes it more than just a succession of climbs. The Sends fares well in this respect. The theme of what it takes to send routes and boulders is explored mainly through extensive interviews which are skillfully intercut with the climbing footage to form a smooth, very watchable story. The scenes with Boye by the campfire felt a bit superfluous to me, though, and perhaps the film could have been kept together with slightly less of the talking. I would also have liked to hear more Swedish, as the English at times felt a bit contrived. We are in Sweden, and mostly among Swedish climbers, after all. One of the few instances when Swedish is clearly heard is when Björn Strömberg falls off at the anchors of Leroy and very loudly lets the name of the female genitals echo in the cave. Genuine. One of my favorite moments of the film.

The footage itself is generally good, but suffers from an occasional lack of "master shots", meaning shots that reveal the entire line, or just reveal the line for what it is. The DWS section in particular would have benefitted greatly from more shots showing exactly how high above the water the climber is, how far he has to go and so on. In fact, I can recall only one such shot, in which Stefan Wulf is hanging in a small roof at perhaps ten meters: a beautiful shot, which is inexplicably held for only a few frames. The lack of these kinds of shots is partially explained by the parameters under which the shooting took place (according to some inside information I've received). However, in some cases the best angle is not found, or is underused. The best example of this is Normipäivä, which is one of the most impressive boulder problems I have ever seen: a perhaps 60 degree overhang, as if cut by a knife, which just goes on and on and on. This does not come through in the film. A bit of history would have been nice here, too. The problem was tried by everyone and his brother for well over ten years before Nalle Hukkataival finally climbed it in 2007. Among the failed contenders is Ben Moon, who allegedly said "in another life" after giving up.

In Swedish meatballs I had a huge problem with the choice of music and the way it worked (or didn't!) with the picture. Here, I think some progress has been made. However, there are probably many kinds of scenes to which acoustic man-and-guitar music in the minor key goes beautifully, but someone cranking a DWS F.A. by the skin if his teeth is definitely not one of them! Similar fatal dissonances (for me) between music and picture are found throughout the film, so I guess I just don't share Boye's view on this matter.

Some selected highlights: the section with Stefan Rasmussen (nice character portrait and fine problems); Bolander topping out 43 Knots at Bläckhall, showing real elation and relief; Leroy, impressive line and real frustration.

Overall, the Sends is a well crafted climbing film, the best so far from Tielma, and as such comes with my recommendation (for what it's worth!). It is available as a traditional dvd and also as a HD download at www.tielma.com.

Text by Tommy Vänskä
www.slouppi.net/articles.phtml?articlePage=11

The Sends recension av Johan Banck

The Sends är kanadensiskfödde Shawn Boyes tredje svenska klätterfilm. Den tar avstamp i den amerikanska dosagetraditionen och följer en rad av de mer celebra svenska klättrarna genom ett flertal varierande dicipliner. Från nattbouldring i ljuset av hostande dieselaggregat via soldränkt DWS på västkusten till Granitgrottans sportklättring.

The Sends, en parafras på dykningens "The Bends" i vanligt språkbruk kallad dykarsjuka, kretsar kring vad som driver vissa att satsa så mycket, pressa sig så hårt och i vissa fall utsätta sig för anmärkningsvärda risker i den eviga jakten på att senda. Regissören agerar själv spirituell vägledare genom filmen och har verkligen lagt ner möda på att fånga klättrarnas tankar kring den egna sporten. Intervjuerna är många och man hinner komma under skinnet på både en och två av de flitigast förekommande. Tyvärr upprepas stilen från Swedish Meatballs vilket innebär att även de svenska klättrarna pratar engelska. Kanske är undertexter ett väldigt avigt arbete men det blir skevt i en svensk produktion med svenska klättrare som pratar engelska. Vi brukar skryta med det mest engelsktalande landet utanför de brittiska öarna och så är det kanske men så jävla bra är vi inte. Annars är det enda jag saknar i intervjuväg en lite mer ingående uppföljning av tankarna kring Dab och låsning av projekt. Båda delarna nämns men lämnas tämligen okommenterade.

Den som får vika ut sig mest kring klättring och att senda är Peter Bosma. Mycket tack vare en till synes utpräglad vana att sätta ord på sina tankar. Många ord. Risken med en klätterfilm med utforskande ambitioner är att hamna i det pratiga facket. Det balanseras verkligen på gränsen mer än en gång och räddningen är i mångt och mycket att det inte är några 18-åringar i rufsiga frisyrer som skall tänka till utan faktiskt vuxna människor som har något att säga. En väldigt kul detalj är för övrigt Bosmas och den också mycket förekommande Stefan Wulfs kommentarer om varandra. Det finns dock en balans i filmen och den stavas Scott Mooney. Själva antitesen till Bosmas filosofi om gemenskap, kollektiv sendarglädje och att sporra varandra. Scott konstaterar lakoniskt: "You don't need to go climbing with so many people do you? They're not gonna help you up anything".

Trots den filosofiska ramen bjuds det på mycket klättring och precis som dess amerikanska föregångare är den stora behållnigen att man får ta del av så varierande klättring. Några av höjdpunkterna är Stefan Rasmussens till synes outtömliga entusiasm när han i djupaste skogarna i småland hukar sig ner över det kroknade dieselaggregatet i förhoppning om några timmars bouldrande till. Stefan Wulfs bestigning av Elefantsprickan, en shallow water solo utanför Stockholm, att på nära håll få följa Bosmas extrema sendarpsyke och se Björn Strömberg som efter att äntligen besegrat Leroy sitter skäggig och bakis i soffan med en flaska JW på bordet framför sig: "I think I need som time just to get all my stuff together".

Boye visar sin vana trogen fingertoppskänsla för att plocka ut rätt folk till sin film och mixen av personligheter lyfter verkligen filmen, ett särskilt omnämnande går till Stefan Wulf. Mannen är född att vara framför kameran och skulle med lätthet bära upp en film på egen hand. Annars hade det varit kul om man fått ta del av den yngre generation klättrare som är på gång, namnen som dyker upp i The Sends har funnits på tapeten ett bra tag nu och nog måste det finnas lite nya talanger att blanda upp laget med?

Rent tekniskt håller filmen inte amerikansk klass, vilket man inte kan förvänta sig, men Boye har helt klart utvecklats sedan starten och det är i särklass den bästa av hans filmer. Tyckte till och med mig ana en bompanorering någonstans. Soundtrack är en annan av hans styrkor och det visas återigen. Jag skulle inte ta i någon av låtarna med tång men till filmen fungerar det klockrent.

Till syvende och sist är det en habil svensk (väder nämns otaliga gånger) produkt. Mycket klättring, bra mix av klättrare och en skön inramning. Boyes bästa.

av Johan Banck
http://klatterbilder.blogspot.com/2009/11/recension-av-sends.html

Open Letter/Review of The Sends by Olle Wehlin

I asked Olle Wehlin to write a review of The Sends in Swedish, with the idea that it would be published to the Swedish 8a page. Here's what Olle had to say:

jaha. så har man sett den då, filmen man väntat på allt för länge.
Kan tänka mig att tillverka en klätterfilm måste vara rätt svårt eller hårt kanske. speciellt om man skå få självaste hugh grant att sola elefant sprickan.
måste verkligen säga att filmen tilltalar mig väldigt gott. det känns som om du börjar att få kläm på det där.
otroliga platser i bohusskärgården samt en otroligt svensk nyaseeländare det är ju som gjort för en mysig hemma kväll.
kul som faan att få ta del av dessa hjältars grymma driv, även om vissa kör moped och andra brassar fete båt, så verkar det ju som om det enda viktiga är det rätta tillståndet, för det är väl då man sänder. STARKT JOBBAT
ser fram emot uppföljaren, och hoppas på att henrik kommer starta en båt taxi i skärgården.
kan mycket väl tänka mig att detta kan bli årets julklapp i vissa kretsar.

(du får säga till om du vill att jag skall skriva mer. filmen är as grym det ända jag skulle vilja ha mer av är utzoomningar.)
har tyvärr tappat bort adressen till jens men det kanske du kan lösa. funkar på att åka till blåmannen till sommaren och ha en hjälmkamera under klättringen vad tror du om det. mvh olle

The Sends Reviewed by Carl-Ola Boström

Join a slightly different adventure through a not so well known venue. Sweden and Swedish climbers are in focus in Shawn Boye’s new film, The Sends. This is a 1½ hour action packed film featuring a part of all the different climbing styles that you can find in this long country.

We follow Swedish superstars Peter Bosma, Stefan Rasmussen, Scott Mooney, Stefan Wulf and Björn Strömberg on their lifelong quest of finding out what it takes to send. They travel through Sweden and explore the fantastic piscobloc (deep/shallow water solo), sport- and tradclimbing on the west coast in Bohuslän and the steep and crimpy bouldering on the east coast in Västervik, Stockholm and Åland.

A lot of the climbing pictured in the film really gets me psyched to go on yet another road trip in Sweden but surprisingly, for me as a notorious boulderer, the part that really gets me going is the trad from Bohuslän. I love the attitude of Scott and Dylan and it is really refreshing to see someone just shut up and climb.

Another part that gets my fingers sweating is Wulfs psicobloc ascent of Elefantsprickan. This is a steep crack around 8a+ and my only complaint is that it was practiced on toprope before the ascent. However, it is understandable as the water beneath him is only 1½ meters deep. That means Psicobloc with a big P. To see Stefan fliñar (a Spanish verb combing the verbs “to be high” and “to shit yourself”) in a way I have only seen in Mallorca before is really great.

As for the camerawork from Mr Boye it has really taken a big step since his last release. The angles, colors, editing etc exceed anything I have seen in a Swedish climbing film before. I know that his focus is still on getting real ascents, done in one take with multiple cameras and this does add to the experience.

Basically this is a film about passion, commitment and dedication. If you are contemplating a trip to Sweden it is a must to see The Sends before. If you are not planning a trip to Sweden, then watch out. You just might after watching it.

Carl-Ola Boström

The Sends HD Download

For the first time ever Tielma Productions is simultaneously releasing our new film The Sends on DVD, $24.95, as well as a HD Download, $19.95.

The Sends HD Download is higher quality than the DVD and includes the Outtakes not included on the DVD. However, the HD Download requires a fast computer with at least 2 GB of free disk space and a recent version of Quicktime. you will also need a fast internet connection.

Payment is via Paypal, International Bank Transfer or Bankgiro in Sweden. On receipt of payment you will be sent an email with a link to the download. Contact info@tielma.com if you have technical questions or difficulties with the download.

File Size: 1.95 GB
Resolution: 1280x720
Run Time: 71 minutes Plus 14 minutes of Outtakes
Format: Quicktime .mp4 file, encoded with H.264 codec

JSM 2009

Tobias Linder, Swedish Junior Champion, on the finals route, Eskilstuna Klätterklubb.

1/100s, F2.8, 70mm, ISO400 © 2009 Shawn Boye

The Danes are coming!

Read the review of The Sends, in danish, by www.stonemonkey.dk...

Gaia

It's well known that sunlight is important for Gaia, 8b, Odyssey, Kalymnos. Climber: Zafiris Kamaropoulos.

1/640s, F4.5, 50mm, ISO200 © 2009 Shawn Boye

"Catfish"

Sometimes getting what you want requires some sacrifice.
There are a lot of stray cats on Kalymnos.
This one apparently wasn't hungry enough.
Was I?

1/160s, F6.3, 105mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye

Aegialis

Oscar Krumlinde working the mega classic Aegialis, 7c, Grande Grotta, Kalymnos.

1/1000s, F2.8, 200mm, ISO100 © 2009 Shawn Boye